My trek is finally Here, after the training and weight loss, equipment buying and testing I embarked on my first solo adventure to Everest Base Camp. This is a 20 year dream and the first time I have travelled on my own in 52 years. Let's go!
Days 1 to 7 of my Epic Trip to Everest Base Camp
Day 1
Flights for this trip had to be altered due to the rising conflict in the middle east. I had to fly 36 hours earlier and on a different route to get to Kathmandu. Monday was a day of waiting initially then a train from Honeybourne to Heathrow for a flight to Delhi. This was my first trip abroad on my own ever so it felt very strange and I was a little apprehensive. Once sorted at the airport and bags checked all the security done its time to relax and drink coffee for too long as my flight was delayed 2 hours.
Once boarded plane realise that charger is needed, lesson learnt, watched some films and utilised my kindle.
The flight to Delhi was two hours late taking off an 1 hour longer due to flight changes for safe passage. Having not done long haul for years I did not consider the knock on effect and time zone difference of 6 hours forward to contend with.
Day 2
As flying overnight and having a 6 hour time gain, travel was over 2 days, which was obviously tiring and at times tedious. Did sleep as felt very tired and stressed, need to download films, have ear phones and music for the way back.
Arrive at Delhi at lunchtime for what I was expecting a lay over and killing time for the next flight. I had completely forgot the detour and 2 hour delay. This meant that off the plane and a rush to international transfers, more security, new boarding pass, more security, then a rush to the gate to catch follow on flight with about 15 minutes to spare. Had boots on, belt watch so security takes longer and have metal hips which always raises the alarm.
The flight from Delhi to Kathmandu is short about 2 and half hours so a pleasant flight compared to the 14 hours prior. Once landed at comparatively tiny airport and 3 security checks get to immigration.
Thought I have got this dollars and a passport photograph. Wrong new system with touch screen and electronic payment that works great up until paying where I needed Wi-Fi to confirm me paying the immigration fee on my banking app. At this point epic fail, have to wait in another queue to get Wi-Fi access and process, then the third degree for a visa confirmation and through.
Taxi rides in Kathmandu are like a computer game with points for getting as close as possible to everyone as fast as possible. Chaotic does not really do travel justice at peak times. Never saw a crash, but it would be carnage if like that in the UK.
Oh an another thing, its 10 to 1 in favour of motorbikes’ with numerous passengers. The law must be rider helmet driver all passengers no helmet at all. Also if you have a small child squeeze it between you for safety.
Arrive at the hotel and dump all of my luggage and set out exploring the crazy tourist area of Thamel and get some dinner. Then sleep!
Day 3
Wake up early as I want to do some sight seeing before meeting my trekking group in the afternoon. Have a coffee and head out to a top area for sight seeing Durbar Square. After looking on the map go for a taxi as it’s a 15 minute ride and the cost is ridiculous at around £3.50. Upon arriving at Durbar square can see why they suggest earlier in the morning as it was like my other experiences of Kathmandu, busy, vibrant and appearing disorganised. What’s very different here is that 50% of the people are like me tourists taking pictures of everything and 50% are local and are praying and performing rituals at the many temples and religious places. This area is over run with dogs walking around everywhere and no owners as part of the fabric of the place.
I took loads of interesting pictures and reviewed the information for the buildings which was limited. I noticed something personal to myself, I did not enjoy the experience as much on my own, no one to bounce thoughts off, or focus on different areas. As I said this was the first time in my life as a solo traveller and it takes some adjusting.
It took about hour and a half to go around the area and see everything, like all countries the contrast between the old and new was stark as the new was in poor order. The area was exceptionally clean and free from rubbish which is noticeable everywhere in Nepal. As it was getting hot I had been told by the hotel to go to a particular coffee shop which was exactly what I needed.
I like fresh ground coffee and I would happily state I am addicted. Now this place served Himalayan coffee locally sourced and organic, and it tasted exceptional good. I will report I had 4 different coffee’s prepared differently and the one which amazed me was in a French press style which you drank more like tea. Spent a long time here and loved the experience, food was great too.
Back to hotel for a important briefing and to meet my trekking group for the first time. I was a little apprehensive as for the next two weeks would be with this group. First impressions were very positive and a real mix of people and characters. The briefing was long detailed and somewhat alarming as the weather was going to play a big part, bigger than anticipated. Issued with a porter bag which must be under 10kg and your personal rucksack which must be under 5kg for the plane the next day.
I quickly realised I had brought too much equipment and stuff and spent a couple of hours deliberating over what to bring and how much weight. This on reflection should have been what I did in the UK and bring less weight overall. Having too many options and what if thoughts promotes a slow process.
Bags done out for a meal as a group which was brilliant for getting to know a few people, then back to hotel for early start.
Day 4
A 5am start to get to Kathmandu airport for the first flight to Lukla. Everyone is buzzing and rechecking bags, wearing as much as possible with empty water bottles to make the baggage weight. We are off to Kathmandu Airport, very different experience when internal as it appears its who you know rather than a set process. We speed through security, baggage and are ready for the first flight which thankfully is going ahead. It’s a small plane 16 seats and they creatively pack everything in. First views of Everest and then a landing. I emphasis this as Lukla is the shortest commercial runway in the world, 527 metres long and 30 metres wide and a 12% slope to aid in braking for landing and acceleration for take-off.
The landing is sudden and hard along with massive braking. The pilots have to do over 100 practice take off and landings in real time as the conditions and the runway are challenging oh and it has to be done by eye and not computer.
We leave the airport for a teahouse and breakfast and meet our trekking team and guides. Everyone is bouncing from the start and we swiftly move to the entrance to the national park and process our passes and are off.
Easy trekking today to Phakding (2610m) we are introduced to Nepalese flat for 4 hours which is essentially up and down all of the time with very little flat. We follow the Dudh Kosi river on varying paths to our first tea house.
This is a great introduction to the daily process of trekking and teahouse, unpacking and packing equipment and briefing for the next day which will be our process for the next 14 days.
Great sleep today as all of the travel, packing questions and overthinking are behind me, its down to the business of trekking.
Day 5
Early start and packing for the porters. Lots of water and off we go to Namche Bazaar. Initially the walking is comfortable and up and down along wide paths, we all stop constantly to take pictures of our surroundings as the weather is fantastic. I see the first of many golden eagles flying down the valley along with lots of helicopters taking people and equipment to Everest Base Camp.
We are getting used to trekking and the frequent layer system needed as the weather becomes colder. Also people in the group have there first tastes of suspension bridges crossing the river we cross 3 before lunch and have been walking for 4 hours. Now the trek begins, properly as the next 3 hours feels like its just up and up and up along paths rocks and some steps, we cross some more bridges and get to the famous Hilary Bridge its very windy and much cooler now.
Now if the Nepalese say it’s a steep ascent to Namche Bazaar from the bridge you should realise it’s a million steps and very steep and exhausting due not only the intensity of the walk but also rapidly increasing altitude. Just to add to the mix on a sunny day like this morning you can see Everest and surrounding mountain peaks, great, however the weather had turned, lots of cloud and it started to snow.