Day 8
At the Sherpa village in Phorte Gaon the sunrise is something to see so we all got up earlier to witness this. Unfortunately the weather did not comply for the photo.
Today was a hard Trekking day the weather warmed up which was fantastic and the views from the trail rewarded you for the hard work of the trek.
We arrived in Dingboche late in the afternoon after a long trek of around 9 hours at least tomorrow would be shorter trekking as it was an acclimatisation day.
We do all of our O2 levels and checks as we have gained altitude and some of the group are feeling the effects.
Day 9
Today is another acclimatisation day as we arrived at Dingboche (4410m) yesterday after 600m gain in altitude which we are all noticing. This means a short walk around 3 hours total with a gain in altitude of around 500 metres. This was what felt like straight up and was hard on your breathing. The weather was cold and changeable views were reduced due to the cloud cover and this made the walk more challenging
What made today good was that although the walk was hard it was short and the weather change been colder meant that after lunch we could rest which was most welcome.
I was tired from the previous days trekking and some feet up time reading and relaxing till dinner was most welcome. The accommodation is very basic now and gets colder towards the evening.
Day 10
Trek today is to Lobuche a challenging route with a long morning trek till lunch and a altitude gain to 5000m for lunch which is significant. The start of the trek is cold but sunny and the environment is breath taking, literally.
The morning is a long trek about 5 hours including a fast lunch and the weather looks great but is much colder.
After lunch we progress to the ridge and some flatter ground which is very rocky and come to the Sherpa Memorial Ground. This place honours all of the Sherpas and Climbers who have lost their lives on Everest. It is a humbling place and we spend some time here. Lots of People who loose their life on Everest the body is not recovered so this acts for some as a final resting place. The memorial and the environment is a stark reminder that it’s a tough place to be!
After some rest and time at the memorial ground its on to Lobuche which is very busy with trekkers and very cold around -10 when we arrive and it will go down to -19 overnight which is obviously very cold.
The tea house is extremely busy and the communal food area is less cold due to the number of people and no wind chill. The tea house is extremely basic and the food is too with a small menu as they have ran out of most things. As its bad weather limited power so no Wi-Fi and light is limited so its head torch on.
Everyone is moving in slow motion as cold hungry and tired and the altitude means our O2 levels are reduced, mine is 85% which is ok but noticeable. Fortunately for me I have no other signs on acute mountain sickness.
Others in the group are struggling with intermittent head aches, odd balance issues and massive fatigue.
The basic accomodation means no heat so its only a few degrees warmer inside than out. The main beneifit of the house is no additional wind chill and security.
I do take some time to reflect how lucky I am at home to have all of the basic things and heat. If its cold outside my house is at least 18 degrees on the inside which is about 30 degrees different to now. The fact that I am wearing thermals socks gloves a coat etc while in a down sleeping bag highlights the environment.
Waking up the following morning when it had been -19 overnight was an experience the window was frozen like I have never seen, my water bottle totally frozen and bizarrely I am in great spirits.
Day 11
Today is the big one we are going to Everest Base Camp. We are all up early as it was so cold last night we all found getting warm and staying warm hard, sleep was a challenge.
Defrosted everything and packed more warm clothes and extra water and snacks as today is the hardest trekking day of the whole trip and its -10 outside!
On a good weather day the plan is 3 hours to Gorak Shep an early lunch and 3 hours to Everest Base Camp and 3 hours Back to Gorak Shep. Today is more challenging with the weather, its snowing and cold, its also been like this for several days and so snow has accumulated. The trek starts with a relatively flat plane to walk which in better conditions would have been much easier. This is a productive walk as we are in good spirits and the weather is holding and dare I say clearing some what.
We arrive at the highest tea house in the world and it is chaos as everyone who is going or returning to Everest Base Camp is here. Have a big lunch as have been struggling with eating a biproduct of altitude. Also I am not a big chocolate fan so only eat bits which others have been supplementing food with.
Its strangly warm in the tea house as the volume of people increase the temperature and we will be stopping here tonight.
We set of quickly post lunch as time is marching on and a small break in the weather pushes things on. The walk is true Nepalese style of flat so lots of up and down small rocky paths made slower due to the volume of people and yaks, porters bringing equipment to base camp.
The pace was slow but I am over the moon at making it! Its an odd feeling as the joy of the achievement is short lived a few minutes. Then follows the relief and reflection on the achievement. Your rational brain kicks in and its only a rock marker, however a very significant marker of achievement of the goal and importantly the journey!
It's funny, I am more proud of myself now, than I was on the day. I think my brain was moving to the trek back and how tired I felt.
Below is some pictures from the way to Everest Base Camp, a lone porter, the start of the camp on the glacier. We did break the rules to get some closer pictures of Base Camp which are also below.
You spend 8 to 12 days getting to Everest Base Camp and spend around 30 minutes there. After the emotion of the achievement and photos and a short rest taking in the magnitude of what you have done, its pack up as back to Gorak Shep.
The group and I found this 3 to 4 hours very difficult, as we had made our goal and psychologically we felt spent. On a personal level I was very tired and the accumulating trek days, altitude and the draining weather were taking there toil.
I am very tired at this point the weather was kind initially and I was in red at the back of the group. I am trying to relax my lower body as my legs and ankles are tired and I am down on energy
Getting back to Gorek Shep took about 3.5 hours and I was tired and cold. Extremely pleased to have got to base camp, but needing a rest and option to recover from the day of emotion and physical stress.
On arrival at Gorek Shep tea house after ordering my dinner I went straight to my room to get changed into some dry clothes and rest. Lots of water and electrolytes in this cold room trying to get warm. Close to our dinner time I went to the main food area as extremely busy like a restaurant so limited space to eat. The menu was very limited due to supplies only from yak, and the volume of people. Hot drinks and as much Dal Bhat as I could eat it was time to sleep. The temp outside was -21 and not much warmer in the room, so sleep was limited as trying to get warm. Rest was needed!
To find out to rest of the trek please click HERE
https://energymedicine.io/personal-goal/everest-base-camp-trek-days-12-to-18/
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